Setting Styles

London Rocks Jewellery Posted on August 18 2016

Selecting what cut and colour stones you would like to use in a bespoke piece of jewellery is often the biggest choice, however the setting is what starts to give those materials its own character. Clean, sharp lines achieved using rub-over or channel setting styles can give a simple more minimalist aesthetic, whereas more ornate cut-down or scallop settings can add detail and often give a more antique feel. Combining different setting methods can also start to create interest and juxtaposition between shapes and colours, so never feel constrained. However perhaps a harmonic aesthetic where all stones match in a precise fashion appeals, the options are plentiful but to help you along the way we've put together some examples of stones, setting styles and metals for some inspiration...

Asscher cut white diamond centre stone in a four claw talon setting, with thread and grain set black diamond bespoke shoulders. An 18 carat rose gold shank with 18 carat white gold four claw collet for the centre stone.

A fives stone ring, with square cut radiant cognac diamond centre stone, white diamond baguette and trapeze shoulders. All stones are set in a rub-over platinum mount.

A platinum three sided thread and grain eternity band. This setting technique can be applied to many jewellery items, either as accent shoulders, halo's or as in the image above the main focus.

Two examples of thread and grain settings. The left image is a bespoke brooch and pendant, with the thread and grain diamonds beautifully tapering where needed to follow the font of the 'E'. To the right the thread and grain has been added to the shoulders of a three stone ring, again tapering inwards at the top, giving the piece flow and elegance.

Three stone engagement ring, using three oval cut stones. A blue Sapphire sits to centre within an 18ct yellow gold, four claw setting with a talon shape. The two diamond side stones are within a rub-over setting made from 18ct white gold.

Cut-down also known as Castle set full eternity band in Platinum. Bigger stones are used in this method proportionality to the band as the less metal is on display, as shown below.